The Game Boy Color USB-C Charging Kit PRO is a new circuit designed specifically for the Nintendo Game Boy Color. This all-in-one circuit includes not only the charging controller but also a boost converter and audio amplifier.
The modern IPS displays with backlighting require more power than the original display, and flash cards used to load tons of games can quickly drain the battery. To truly enjoy the games, it is recommended to use a rechargeable battery instead of AA batteries.
However, simply using a rechargeable battery is not sufficient. The increased power consumption puts a strain on the original electronics, potentially causing noise in the speaker or headphones.
The typical solution is to add a charging circuit for the battery and a power converter to replace the old, inefficient one included in the GBC. Some individuals also add an audio amplifier to enhance the sound quality of the speaker. All these modifications make the GBC function optimally. However, installing them requires numerous cables and may be challenging for individuals without sufficient knowledge.
The latest version is the 3.1. This is a note for v2.3 which doesn’t support “Safe charge and play” properly. Please, DO NOT charge and play at the same time to avoid any problems. (Read more about it here)
The intro of some games: system sound 100%, audio amp 50% and speaker 8Ω 1W
This video shows a GBC running for 6 hours and 30 minutes. It did it with an IPS V3 laminated screen with the brightness at 100%, the system sound at 100%, the amplifier sound at 50%, playing the games from a flash card and using a 1800mAh battery.
Charging and Playing test
This video shows a GBC charging and playing a game for about 2 hours. It did it with an IPS V3 laminated screen with the brightness at 100%, the system sound at 20%, the amplifier sound at 50%, playing the games from a flash card and using a 1500mAh battery.
Installing the board on the GBC
This video shows the installation progress of the board on the GBC.
This board is compatible with the following version boards of GBC:
(1) These boards do not have the EM4 electronic component, one of the kit’s pads must be soldered there to detect if there are headphones connected to the audio jack. An alternative pad can be used for it:
Some third party modules which people or I have tried and work well together this kit:
(2) This display has problems with charging kits and makes noise when you connect the power cable from the screen pad called “BAT” to the “C” leg from the power switch. Fortunately, if you use the “GB+5V” pad of the GBC PRO board instead of the switch leg, the noise will stop.
(3) This screen also needs a power cable from the flex cable to “GB+5V” pad, otherwise it won’t turn the screen on.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the original screen?
No, you cannot. This board is only compatible with screens which work at 5V (IPS screens). The original screen needs another voltage.
The speaker doesn’t sound
During the installation of the board, there is a green/blue cable that needs to be installed between the volume wheel to the board, you can find it inside the small bag.
If you have installed it, check the speaker is properly soldered and it is not broken.
The sound is too loud
The internal audio potentiometer, which is included in the board and is called VR1, is setup by default at 40%, you can decrease it a bit more if you need. See this picture. (Removed since v3.1)
Does the audio amplifier have a feature where audio is completely cut off or silent when the volume wheel is turned all the way down?
No, it doesn’t have that option, and if you have the volume wheel of the audio amplifier at 100% and the GBC volume wheel at 0% you can still hear a bit the sound… however it’s crazy to have the internal volume wheel at 100% because is too loud. My recommendation is 50% or less.
The unique way to have 100% disconnected the sound is connecting the audio jack because it makes sleep the audio amplifier.
Why are there two red and green lights?
The board include lights next to the USB-C and in the small light board. This small board is optional, you don’t need to install it if you don’t want or it’s too difficult for you. But if you do, my recommendation is removing the small resistance called SJ1 with your solder iron, that is going to disable the lights next to the USB-C. If in the future you want to active it again, you just need to put a drop of tin because the resistance has a value of 0, it’s just a jumper/cable.
Does the white led indicate the battery level?
Yes, it works as before, when the battery is decreasing the capacity, the light is going to be less brightness. However, I think this effect is more appreciable with the original led because the red color. You have a video demonstration in the “Additional content (videos)” tap.
Can you use type-c to type-c cables with this board?
Yes, you can. Except the GBA SP board, the rest accept USB-C to USB-C cables and charge with any charger, fast chargers too but a normal speed.
Can I play and charge the battery at the same time? (Safe charge-and-play)
The electronic board support this feature since v3.1. Previous versions don’t support it and you shouldn’t play and charge at the same time.
Do I need to solder the extra power cable of my IPS screen?
I don’t know sure, for my screen that I guess it’s a copy I don’t need to solder any cable to the screen, just connect it and works perfect. However, I have seen someone who needed to solder it otherwise the backlight doesn’t work. So, you can try first without that cable and if it doesn’t work follow the instructions of your screen and solder the cable.
2022-02: v1.0 (Not commercialised)
Initial version, it was made with Texas Instruments ICs, worked well except the audio didn’t turn off when the earphones were connected.
2022-03: v1.1 (Not commercialised)
Fixed the problem with the audio, however I needed to cancel it because the out of stock of ICs and expensive price.
Improved the way to solder the board, it’s easier now.
2022-05: v2.0 (Not commercialised)
Modified the charging and DC converter ICs for another ones with more stock.
Changed the place where the Qi pads were because was in the middle of a screw hole
2022-06: v2.1 (8 units)
Modified the audio ICs for another one with more stock.
Added extra vias to be sure the V_BATT and SDN pad connection are correct because depending on the castellated hole quality can make the installation a bit tricky.
Other minor changes (separating a bit some components from the SJ1, changed the URL of the quick guide, etc.)
Added safe charge and play feature. The product needed to be discontinued from sales as it exhibited incorrect functionality under certain conditions.
2023-03: v3.0 (Not commercialised)
Tested the IP5310 battery charging IC, which has good features and works well. However, it also has drawbacks that lead me to reject it for this product.
Replaced the TP5000 battery charging IC to IP2312U.
Replaced the MT3540 boost converter IC to MT3608.
Replaced the SI2301 load sharing mosfet to AO3401A.
Limited the maximum battery charging current to 0.68A.
Limited the maximum current supplied with a 1.25A fuse.
Eliminated the audio potentiometer used for controlling the audio amplifier level (There is not space for it)
Modified the shape of the two pads inside the board to have a bigger hole and help to solder them.
Decreased the brightest of the LEDs.
Changed the VIN pad as half hole.
Added a battery pad, next to the pads for the light board and sound, which may be used in the future for other product.
Modified the light board from 3 wires to 2 wires.
Modified the frame shape, it allows to test the board before separate the board from it.
Improved light diffuser pipe now in clear white color.
Gallery of customer's installation
If you are happy with your installation result, you can send me the photos and I can publish here, other clients will see the result!
Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review.
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